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Having difficulty opening your engine cover? Worried that the cable might break? Here's all the help you need!
Note that there are simpler 'short cuts' that you could take, but I believe there are good reasons not to follow them. So, I won't show you how to miss out the removal of the rear wheelarch liner by pulling the new cable through. Why? Because if you do this you won't be able to refit the grommet that provides a seal between the rear bulkhead and the cable. I also won't recommend any method of lubricating the existing cable, as this doesn't repair broken inner cable strands (a common cause of cable failure). Finally, I won't show you how to simply replace the inner cable with that from a new one. The cable design has changed significantly (Lotus are on their third version) and now includes a polyurethane inner sheaf. If you only replace the inner cable you'll miss out from the advantages gained from this important improvement in the cable design.
What about an electronic alternative? Although there are a couple of designs on the net, I needed convincing that this is the way to go. The latch mechanism spring requires a 'pulling' force of around 40N (measured). This would mean that, without major redesign, a hefty solenoid with associated cabling (I calculated 4 Amp to be safe) would be needed to reliably replace the mechanical action of the cable. In my view, it's just not worth it.
So, now you're convinced that only the best will do, follow my step-by-step fitting sequence to replace the cable, and get a 'better than new' result and the satisfaction of a job professionally done.
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What you need:
Lotus Engine Cover Release Cable, Part Number A111U0553F (I ordered mine from Williams Automobiles in Bristol). £21.07; 2 x Rawl nuts M5 (Lotus Part Number A075W6074F). £1.33 each; 2 x Rivet (SAAB Part Number 10 4063897). £0.69 each; 2 x Stainless Steel A2 Screw, M5 x 20, Pozi, Pan Head; 2 x Stainless Steel A2 Washer, Shakeproof, M5; 2 x Stainless Steel A2 Washer, Flat, M5; Jack; 8mm, 17mm, 19mm sockets, short / long extension bars, ratchet handle; 14mm combination spanner; 5mm hexagon (Allen) key; Phillips screwdiver; Adjustable Grips; Junior hacksaw; Heavy duty Duck tape; Grease; About three hours time.
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What's this, a SAAB Rivet? Yup, the Lotus part ('Plastic Fastener' Part Number A111W6534F) is definately NOT the one used to fit the rear wheelarch liner! By coincidence Williams Automobiles is also a SAAB dealership and their parts chappie instantly recognised the part from my 'Liz as being exactly the same as a trim rivet used by SAAB. The Lotus 'Plastic Fastener' (also available at Halfords) is smaller, doesn't fit properly and will fall out!
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I obtained the Stainless Steel screws and washers from Wessex Fasteners in Swindon, but most decent fastener suppliers should be able to obtain them.
Rawl nuts can be obtained from other sources, but please make sure you get the correct size (M5 x 15).
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OK, so what's 'in the bag' ?
1 x 'Bowden' Cable, with Lock Nut and Washer
2 x Clear Plastic Sleeves
1 x Cable End Sleeve
1 x Inner Cable Clamp
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Step 1: Remove the Speaker Panel
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Access to the release handle lock nut is via the void behind the drivers side speaker panel. To remove the panel, unclip the sowage net from its hook, remove the seat belt reel and the seat belt top slide (optional), and the screw at the outboard top corner of the panel, then pull the panel away from its Velcro fastening. Note that it is not necessary to remove the stowage net hook; this comes away with the speaker panel.
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17mm Socket
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17mm Socket
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Phillips Screwdriver
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Step 2: Remove the Security Wheel Nut Tool
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Remove the security wheel nut extractor tool, together with the key coded socket, from its storage location in the front services compartment. The tool has a red cover and is stored in a grommet in the windscreen buttress, at the right hand rear corner of the compartment.
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From top left, clockwise:
Red cover with Extractor Tool;
Key coded socket;
Key coded wheel nut (removed here so you know what to look for later);
Wheel nut cover (removed here so you know what to look for later).
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Step 3: Loosen the Wheel Nuts
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Very slightly loosen the drivers side rear wheel nuts (so that you can use the weight of the car with the handbrake applied to counter the force required to loosen the nuts). Push the extractor tool over the wheel nut cover until it clips onto the rim, and withdraw the cover. Mate the key coded socket with the coded nut, and undo using a 19mm socket (or standard 19mm wheelbrace).
WARNING: All we are doing at this stage is relieving the strain from the wheel nuts. Do not remove any!
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Step 4: Raise the Car (Drivers Side)
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Jack the car at the blue jacking point label under the sill. Note the use of a piece of wood to protect the sill.
WARNING: Only Jack at the recommended point!
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Step 5: Remove the Rear Wheel
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Using the 19mm socket (or 19mm wheelbrace) and key coded socket, remove the loosened wheelnuts. Remove the wheel, wheel nuts and extractor tool and put to one side. You really don't need a picture of this, do you!
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Step 6: Remove the Wheelarch Liner
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This section covers the removal of the inner wheelarch lining. This gains access to the cable as it runs from the handle located in the door jamb, through the inner wheelarch void, then up into the engine bay.
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Remove the two plastic wheelarch liner front fixings. If you're lucky the screws will undo without the slots being damaged. Neither of mine survived - hence the need for the SAAB part replacements later. When the screw is removed you can pull the outer plug out, freeing the front section of the liner.
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Use an 8mm socket to remove the screw securing the wheelarch liner to the rear longeron (i.e. rear chassis). It's pictured here to the left of the shock absorber.
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Finally remove the two pozi, pan head screws. These will be a pain as they will be rusted in place. Use grips behind the rear wheelarch clam to hold the rubber Rawl nuts in place whilst undoing the screws. I had to hacksaw the head off one of the screws as it was firmly rusted in place.
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With some twisting and flexing you will now be able to remove the wheelarch liner. Put it and the 8mm centre fixing screw to one side. We'll replace the other fixings with nice new ones later.
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Step 7: Remove the Engine Lid Latch Mechanism
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A single latch is mounted at the centre of the rear edge of the lid, and consists of a striker pin clamped to the lid plinth with a tapping plate and locknut, and a latch slider plate mounted on a composite carrier bonded to the rear clamshell.
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Remove the latch by unscrewing the two button head 5mm hex socket screws. Note the position of the washers; for each socket screw there is one above the bodywork (carrier) and one below.
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Here's a detailed picure of the engine cover latch mechanism. The inner cable is held by the clamp containing a pinch bolt. Undo the pinch bolt and slide the cable away from the mechanism. Use the photo to remember the order of the components that you can replace with those contained in the new cable packaging. Put the mechanism and its fixings safely to one side.
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Step 8: Remove the Cable (Grommet)
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Here's the bit that other people miss! The cable passes through a hole in the bodywork on its way up to the release handle mounted in the rear shut face of the driver's door aperture. To stop the cable rattling in the hole it is secured in place using a rubber grommet (pictured left). You can only get to this by removing the wheelarch liner (now you know!).
From the wheelarch, pull the cable so that the free end is out of the engine bay. You can now prize the grommet away from the bodywork and free it from the cable.
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Step 9: Remove the Cable (Lock Nut & Washer)
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Now that the speaker panel is removed you will be able to reach behind the engine cover lid handle to release it. Referring to the photo (right), you can see that the cable passes up through a slot in the body panel and is secured to the rear shut face of the driver's door aperture using a 14mm nut and lock washer.
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Hold the handle (to stop it turning) and undo the nut. Pull the handle with cable away from its mounting whilst keeping hold of the nut and lock washer in your other hand so that they don't fall through the slot and get lost in the bodywork!. You've now completed the removal of the old cable. Have a cuppa and a well deserved rest!
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Step 10: Grease the new Cable
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To ensure maximum life from the new cable it's a good idea to apply grease along its length now. I laid out several sheets of newspaper (to act as a dust barrier) on the garage floor and pulled the inner cable out of its outer shield, then gave the inner cable a light application of grease. Feed the inner cable back into its outer shield to complete this step.
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Step 11: Fit the new Cable
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A replacement nut and lock washer is provided with the new cable. Remove these and keep them to hand. Feed the cable through the hole in the door jamb and then through the lock washer and nut. Continue to feed the cable through the slot behind the door jamb so that it can be pulled through from the wheelarch.
Tip: Use tape to hold the nut and washer near the top of the cable whilst you pull the cable through into the wheelarch.
Feed the cable through the rubber grommet and secure to the bodywork, forming the 'rattle free' seal between the cable and the bodywork.
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Next you can tighten the nut to secure the handle in place against the door jamb. But first, here comes another helpful tip...
Tip: If the tubular casing at the handle end of the cable is close to the slot in the bodywork, wrap a few layers of Duck tape around the tubing to deaden any vibration. I didn't do this the first time and regretted it!
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Now feed the cable through the hole into the engine bay. We're well on our way now.
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Step 12: Refit the Engine Lid Latch
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Pull the cable into the engine bay so that there is just a little slack remaining in the wheelarch void. Feed the cable around to it's end position in the centre of the rear of the clam. If your cable is the same as mine you'll find that there is plenty of cable 'spare'. Tip: Cut off the excess cable. Use a junior hacksaw to cut through the outer cable shield, being careful not to cut through the inner sheaf or the inner cable. I didn't shorten the cable at first and found that the excess cable introduced a new rattle. Removing around 500mm did the job.
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Feed the cable through the hole in the mechanism carrier bonded to the rear clamshell, then add the black plastic cable end sleeve. Replace the two clear plastic sleeves on the mechanism (refer to the photo above) and feed the inner cable through these. Now the most important part. Feed the inner cable through the new cable clamp and pull the the inner cable so that the engine cover handle is held firmly against the door jamb. Push the cable clamp against the mechanism end stop and (Tip: slightly compress the mechanism spring) tighten the pinch bolt.
Tip: I added the original cable clamp too so that the cable is held twice, in case one of the pinch bolts fails.
Now cut off any excess inner cable and refit the latch, remembering to use the washers either side of the mechanism carrier on the clamshell. Lower the engine lid to check the mechanism alignment before tightening the latch button head 5mm hex socket screws.
Tip (thanks to Bruce, Scandal S160): One way to ensure correct mechanism alignment is to put insulating tape over the hole in the mechanism carrier and lower the engine lid to create an imprint from the striker pin on the tape. The striker pin can then be adjusted so that it is dead centre to the latch mechanism. Bruce also recommends using threadlock on the cable clamp pinch bolts.
You can now test the new cable. It's great!
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Step 13: Refit the Wheelarch Liner
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Slide the wheelarch liner into position. You can secure it in place by refitting the screw that goes into the chassis to the left of the shock absorber (refer to the photo in Step 6).
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Secure the front of the wheelarch liner using the two plastic (SAAB) rivets. Push the outer casing through the hole in the wheelarch liner and into the corresponding hole in the bodywork. Fix in place using the plastic screw, being careful not to overtighten (otherwise you'll strip the head).
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Finally secure the rear of the wheelarch liner using the new stainless steel, M5 x 20, Pozi, Pan Head screws. Place a shakeproof washer on the screw followed by a flat washer. Feed the screw through the hole in the bodywork and into the corresponding hole in the wheelarch liner. Fix in position using a Rawl nut behind the wheelarch liner. Note that the Rawl nut brass threaded insert is at the opposite end to the screw head, so that when the screw is tightened the Rawl nut body compresses to hold the wheelarch liner in place.
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Tip: Pack the Rawl nut with grease to ease future removal!
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Step 14: Refit the Rear Wheel & remove the Jack
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Refit the rear wheel, taking this opportunity to remove oxidation from the wheel nuts with a soft wire brush. Use the key coded socket to refit the coded nut. Lower the car and remove the jack. Now fully tighten the wheel nuts (19mm socket) and replace the locking wheel nut cover.
Remember to place the security wheel nut extractor tool, together with the key coded socket (and red cover), into its storage location in the front services compartment.
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Step 15: Refit the Speaker Panel
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No pictures here either, as refitting is as simple as reversing the activities of Step 1. Tip: The seat belt can be extended by pulling it from its reel in small 'pull, gently release, then pull' steps.
ALL DONE!
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